Lisbon · Portugal

Lisbon by neighborhood.

3 neighborhoods profiled, each written by an editor who's slept in a hotel there, eaten at the locals' spot, and sent postcards home.

Alfama

Lisbon's oldest neighbourhood — fado, tiles, and a maze that survived the 1755 earthquake

The grid of bars on the hill above the Chiado that opens at 9 p.m. and closes at 4

Lisbon's leafiest, most grown-up neighbourhood — 19th-century palaces and a restaurant scene that matters