Toliara, a city on Madagascar’s southwest coast, is home to one of the world’s biggest coral reefs. But before you pack your bags, there’s a lot you need to know. This place isn’t your typical tourist destination.
In 1993, 8 out of 10 people in Toliara Province were living below the poverty line. That’s a fact that still affects the city today in 2024. From tricky transport to unique local customs, visiting Toliara can be an eye-opener. Let’s dive into everything you should know before you go.
Best Time to Visit Toliara
The dry season, from April to October, is the best time to visit Toliara. During these months, you’ll get cool, dry weather that’s great for outdoor activities and wildlife viewing.
If you want the absolute best conditions, aim for September to November. The sun’s out, the sea’s warm, and marine life is at its peak. But here’s the catch – July and August can get pretty crowded with tourists, so keep that in mind if you’re not into big crowds.
| Season | Months | Weather | Best For | Drawbacks |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Dry Season | April – October | Cool, dry | Outdoor activities, wildlife viewing | Crowded in July-August |
| Peak Season | September – November | Sunny, warm sea | Marine activities, beach time | Higher prices |
| Rainy Season | November – March | Wet, humid | Lush landscapes | Difficult travel, cyclone risk |
Now, let’s talk about the rainy season from November to March. Sure, the landscapes get lush and green, but heavy rains and high humidity can make travel a real pain. Some areas might be hard to reach, and there’s always the risk of cyclones.
If you do visit during this time, pack a good raincoat and be ready for some last-minute changes to your plans. It’s not ideal, but if you’re flexible and don’t mind a bit of adventure (or misadventure), you might still enjoy it.
Getting to Toliara
There are three main ways to reach Toliara: by plane, bus, or car. Each option has its pros and cons, so choose based on your budget and travel style.
By Plane
Flying is the quickest and easiest way to get to Toliara, but it’s also the most expensive. Madagascar Airlines operates daily flights from Antananarivo (Tana) to Toliara Airport (TLE). They also have weekly flights from Morondava and twice-weekly flights from Taolagnaro.
Book early, especially during peak season, as these flights fill up fast. The upside is it’s quick and comfortable. The downside? It’s pricey, and you might face delays or cancellations due to Madagascar’s sometimes unreliable air services.
By Bus (Taxi Brousse)
If you’re on a tight budget and have a high tolerance for discomfort, consider taking a taxi brousse (mini-bus) from Tana to Toliara. These buses leave from the Fasan-karana taxi brousse station in Tana around 9:00 AM and 4:00 PM.
The journey takes anywhere from 18 to 24 hours and costs about 35,000 Malagasy Ariary (around $7.70 USD as of September 2024). It’s cheap but be prepared for a long, bumpy ride, possible breakdowns, and basic (or non-existent) amenities.
By Car
Renting a car and driving down the RN7 is a great way to see more of Madagascar, but it comes with its own set of challenges. You’ll pass through some incredible places like Ranomafana National Park and Isalo National Park.
Car rentals usually cost around 130,000 Ariary per day (about $28.60 USD), plus fuel. Most rentals come with a driver, which is good because the roads can be in poor condition and navigation can be tricky. It’s more flexible than the bus, but more expensive and potentially risky due to road conditions.
Getting Around Toliara
Once you’re in Toliara, getting around is relatively easy, but it has its quirks. Here are your main options:
| Transportation | Cost | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|
| Pousse-pousse | Cheapest option | Eco-friendly, local experience | Slow, might feel uncomfortable |
| Taxi | About 6,000 Ariary per km | More comfortable | Don’t operate after 10 PM, more expensive |
| Public transport | 860 Ariary one-way | Very cheap | Uncomfortable, unreliable schedules |
Pousse-Pousse
Pousse-pousse, or rickshaws, are everywhere in Toliara. They’re cheap, eco-friendly, and perfect for short trips around town. However, being pulled around by a person might feel uncomfortable for some tourists.
Remember, this is a normal mode of transport here, and the drivers take pride in their work. It’s a great way to experience local life, but be prepared for slow travel and negotiate the price before you start your journey.
Taxis
Taxis are available for longer distances, but there’s a catch – they don’t operate after 10 PM in Toliara. A 1 km ride will cost you around 6,000 Ariary (about $1.32 USD). They’re more comfortable than pousse-pousse, but more expensive. Always agree on the fare before getting in, as meters are rarely used.
Public Transport
Public transport is the cheapest option to get around Toliara, with a one-way ticket costing about 860 Ariary (roughly $0.19 USD). It’s not the most comfortable ride, and the schedules can be unpredictable, but it’s a great way to experience local life if you’re on a tight budget.
Things to Do in Toliara
Toliara has some cool stuff to check out, but don’t expect fancy tourist traps. Here’s what you can do:
| Attraction | Distance from Toliara | Main Features | Entrance Fee (Ariary) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Reniala Nature Reserve | 22 km | Spiny forest, baobabs, lemurs | 30,000 |
| Arboretum d’Antsokay | 12 km | 900+ plant species, guided tours | 15,000 |
| Ifaty Beach | 30 km | Snorkeling, clear waters, sunsets | Free |
| Great Reef of Toliara | 30-450 km | Coral reef, marine life, snorkeling, diving | Varies by tour |
| Tsimanampetsotsa National Park | 85 km | Salt flats, flamingos, lemurs | 55,000 |
| Madagascar Oceanographic Museum | City center | Marine exhibits, coelacanth | 10,000 |
| University Cultural Museum | City center | Tribal artifacts, local history | 5,000 |
| Zaza Club | City center | Nightlife, local music | Varies |
| Local Markets | Throughout city | Crafts, spices, daily life | Free |
Visit the Reniala Nature Reserve
The Reniala Nature Reserve is all about the spiny forest, and it’s pretty wild. It’s about 22 km from Toliara, and you’ll feel like you’re on another planet. The trees here look like something out of a Dr. Seuss book – all twisty and spiky.
You might spot some lemurs jumping around, and there are tons of weird birds. The reserve is huge – about 60 hectares – and you’ll need a good couple of hours to see it all. Take water and a hat ’cause it gets hot.
The entry fee is around 30,000 Ariary, and a guide will show you around. It’s dusty and strange, but that’s what makes it cool.
Explore the Arboretum d’Antsokay
Arboretum d’Antsokay is closer to town, about 12 km east. It’s like a big outdoor museum for plants, with over 900 types. The cool thing is, 90% of these plants are only found in Madagascar, and a lot of them are close to dying out.
You’ll see the “octopus tree” and the “elephant’s foot” – they’re as weird as they sound. The Arboretum covers about 40 hectares, and there’s a nice little walk you can do that takes about 2 hours.
They’ve got English-speaking guides who really know their stuff. It costs 15,000 Ariary to get in, and it’s worth every penny if you’re into plants or just want to see something different.
Chill at Ifaty Beach
Ifaty is about 30 km north of Toliara, and it’s where you go to escape the city dust. The water’s clear blue, and there’s a coral reef about 200 meters from the shore. It’s great for swimming and snorkeling, but bring your own gear ’cause rentals can be sketchy.
The Ifaty beach isn’t perfect – there’s some trash around, which sucks. But the sunset views are killer. You can hire a boat to take you out to the reef for about 50,000 Ariary.
If you’re lucky, you might spot some whales between July and September. There are a few beach bars where you can grab a cold THB (the local beer) and watch the sun go down.
Explore the Great Reef of Toliara
Toliara has one of the biggest coral reefs in the world. It’s huge, stretching about 450 km along the southwest coast of Madagascar. This Toliara reef is special because it’s got lots of different sea creatures living in it.
Here’s a quick look at what makes Toliara’s reef cool:
| Length | About 450 km |
| Best time to visit | April to November |
| Popular spots | Ifaty, Anakao, Andavadoaka |
| Marine life | Over 6,000 species |
| Coral types | More than 380 species |
| Threats | Climate change, overfishing |
The Toliara reef system has more than just pretty fish. There are big animals too, like sea turtles and dolphins. If you’re lucky, you might even see a whale shark. These are the biggest fish in the world, but don’t worry – they only eat tiny stuff like plankton.
Diving and snorkeling here is awesome, but it’s not always easy. The best time to visit Toliara Reef is from April to November when the water’s clearer. Popular spots are near Ifaty (about 30 km north of Toliara) and Anakao (about 40 km south).
But the reefs are in trouble. Climate change is making the water too warm for corals, and some parts are getting bleached. Overfishing is a problem too. People are trying to protect the reef, but it’s tough when so many locals depend on fishing to live.
If you want to see the Toliara Reef System, try to go with a responsible tour company. They can show you the cool stuff without hurting the environment. And remember, don’t touch the coral or take anything home with you. Let’s keep this awesome reef around for a long time.
Check out Tsimanampetsotsa National Park
This Tsimanampetsotsa National Park is a bit of a journey – about 85 km south of Toliara. But if you’re up for an adventure, it’s worth it.
The main attraction is this massive salt lake that sometimes turns pink with flamingos. There are also lemurs, and tortoises, and if you’re super lucky, you might spot a “diving” blind fish in the caves.
The park covers a huge area – 43,200 hectares – but most tours stick to the lake area. It costs about 55,000 Ariary to get in, plus guide fees. The facilities are basic, so bring food and water. It’s a full day trip from Toliara, so start early.
Learn at the Madagascar Oceanographic Museum
Right in the city center, this museum’s a hidden gem. The Madagascar Oceanographic Museum is not fancy, but it’s packed with cool stuff about marine life. The star of the show is a preserved coelacanth – a fish that was thought to be extinct for millions of years until they found one off the coast in 1995.
They’ve also got displays about coral reefs, mangroves, and local fishing practices. It only costs about 10,000 Ariary to get in, and you can see everything in about an hour. It’s a good place to learn about the ocean life you might see if you go snorkeling.
Discover Local Culture at the University Museum
This small museum is run by the University of Toliara and it’s full of fascinating (and sometimes creepy) stuff about local tribes. You’ll see masks with real human teeth, tools used for traditional ceremonies, and even some “black magic” items.
The Toliara University Museum is basic—don’t expect fancy displays—but it gives you a real insight into local culture. The museum’s in the city center and only costs about 5,000 Ariary to visit. You can see everything in about 30 minutes, but it’s worth taking your time to read the descriptions.
Party at Zaza Club
If you want to experience Toliara nightlife, Zaza Club is the place. It’s the most famous club in Madagascar, right in the city center. The music’s a mix of local stuff and international hits.
Here’s the catch – taxis stop at 10 PM, but the club doesn’t open until 11 PM. So you’ll need to take a pousse-pousse back to your hotel, which can be sketchy late at night. Drinks are pretty cheap – about 5,000 Ariary for a beer. Just watch your stuff and don’t go too crazy.
Wander the Markets
Toliara’s markets are where you’ll really see local life. The main market, near the center of town, is a maze of stalls selling everything from spices to second-hand clothes. It’s noisy, smelly, and totally authentic.
You can buy local crafts like woven bags or carved wooden items, but be ready to bargain hard. The fruit and veg market is a riot of colors and smells.
Even if you don’t buy anything, it’s a great place to people-watch and maybe try some weird tropical fruits. Just keep your wallet close and watch out for pickpockets.
Pro Tip: Toliara isn’t set up for tourists like some places. But if you go with an open mind, you’ll see some cool stuff you can’t find anywhere else. Just be patient, respect the locals, and you’ll have a great time.
Where to Stay in Toliara
Accommodation in Toliara ranges from basic to mid-range, with a few higher-end options. Here’s a rundown:
| Hotel | Price Range (Ariary) | Features | Drawbacks |
|---|---|---|---|
| Auberge de la Table | From 100,000 | On Arboretum grounds, pool, restaurant | 12 km from city center |
| Bakuba Hotel | From 477,000 | Unique African-themed, near beach | Expensive, some odd design choices |
| Central Hotel | 25,000 – 35,000 | Budget-friendly, central location | Basic amenities, can be noisy |
| Hotel Le Palétuvier | From 60,000 | Large hotel, conference center, pool | Mixed reviews on service |
| Hotel Victory | From 227,000 | Modern hotel, airport pickup | Expensive for the area |
The Auberge de la Table is nice if you want to be close to nature, but it’s far from the city center. Bakuba Hotel offers a unique experience but at a high price. For budget travelers, Central Hotel is centrally located but basic. Remember, even the more expensive hotels here might not meet the standards you’re used to in more developed tourist destinations.
Local Food to Try in Toliara
Toliara’s food scene reflects the region’s diverse cultural influences. Here are some dishes to try:
- Romazava: A meat stew made with beef or zebu, mixed with greens. It’s tasty, but the meat can be tough.
- Ravitoto: Made from shredded cassava leaves, often cooked with pork. It’s a local favorite, but the texture might be unusual for some.
- Mofo gasy: A type of Malagasy bread, often served for breakfast. It’s simple but satisfying.
- Koba: A sweet snack made with ground peanuts and rice flour. It’s an acquired taste for some visitors.
| Dish | Main Ingredients | Price Range (Ariary) | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Romazava | Beef/zebu, greens | 8,000 – 12,000 | Meat can be tough |
| Ravitoto | Cassava leaves, pork | 7,000 – 10,000 | Unusual texture |
| Mofo gasy | Rice/corn flour | 1,000 – 3,000 | Simple breakfast food |
| Koba | Peanuts, rice flour | 2,000 – 4,000 | Acquired taste |
For dining out, Etoile de Mer on the main coastal road offers a mix of cuisines. La Maison on Avenue d’Independence is popular with expats. Prices are reasonable by international standards, but high for many locals. Be cautious with street food to avoid potential stomach issues.
Safety Tips for Visiting Toliara
Toliara has its share of safety concerns, so it’s important to be cautious:
- Batterie Beach, just north of Toliara, has been the scene of violent crime, including some fatalities. As of 2023, Global Affairs Canada has issued an “Avoid All Travel” advisory for this area.
- Avoid walking alone at night, especially in isolated areas. Use trusted taxi services or pousse-pousse for transportation after dark.
- Keep your valuables secure and avoid displaying expensive items. Petty theft can be an issue.
- Be aware that healthcare facilities in Toliara are limited. Consider getting comprehensive travel insurance that covers medical emergencies and evacuations.
- Respect local customs and dress modestly to avoid unwanted attention. Madagascar is generally conservative in dress and behavior.
- Be cautious with food and water hygiene to avoid stomach issues. Stick to bottled water and be wary of uncooked foods.
Remember, while many tourists visit Toliara without incident, it’s always better to be prepared and aware of potential risks.
Cultural and Historical Background of Toliara
Toliara, also known as Toliary or Tuléar, is a mix of different cultures with a tough past. These different names come from how various people pronounce the city’s name.
The city is home to several ethnic groups, including the Antandroy, Veso, Masikoro, and Mahafaly. It’s also called the “White City” because of the light-colored sand that covers its streets.
Each group has its own special traditions that you can see in their art, music, and daily life. When you walk around Toliara, you’ll notice how these different cultures blend together.
The city stands at the end of the RN7 road, about 1000 km from Antananarivo, making it an important crossroads in southwestern Madagascar.
A History of Struggles
Toliara used to be part of a bigger province with many problems. In 1993, 80% of Toliara’s residents lived below the poverty line. That means most folks struggled to get enough food and basic stuff.
On top of that, families were really big – most women had more than 5 kids. School was a problem too, with only about 2 in 10 people finishing primary school. These issues are still causing trouble for Toliara today.
Unique Plants and Animals
The area around Toliara’s got some pretty special plants and animals. There’s a tree called Givotia madagascariensis that’s good for making things, and another plant called moringa drouhardii that people use for oil.
You can’t find these plants anywhere else in the world. But there’s a big problem – lots of forests are being cut down. This means these special plants and animals might disappear.
Efforts to Make Things Better
People are trying to make things better in Toliara. They’ve set up nature reserves and national parks to protect the plants and animals.
These places help keep the special species safe and give people jobs in tourism. But there’s still a lot more work to do. Toliara has got a long way to go before all its problems are fixed.
Have A Safe Visit to Toliara
Toliara is a place with big challenges and unique charms. It’s got beautiful beaches and weird forests, but also lots of poverty and environmental problems. If you visit, you’ll see things you can’t find anywhere else in the world.
Sure, tourism can help Toliara, but it’s got to be done right. Be respectful, spend your money wisely, and try to learn about the local culture. Toliara might not be perfect, but it’s definitely one-of-a-kind.
